Sooooo… I was injured for some time and I’m still recovering BUT I’m so psyched about climbing I can’t help but dreaming, planning and climbing quite a lot lately!
At the moment, I am not in the best climbing form, but I’m still working on my yearly pyramid described HERE. So, I tried some route few days ago and it seems like a crush. If you are not a climber (and even if you are) that may seem weird!
On friday I took a day off to go climbing in Kotečnik, one of my favourite crags. I was looking for some 6c+ and find it, do a research on climbing pages and decided to try it. It’s my anti-style; 30m long, endurance based route called “Akt”. But when you are working on your pyramid, the style is important NOT to be only your favourite, so you can improve as a whole and go on to the next level. Anyway, we came to the parking area and it was really wet. We were worried, but started to walk up the crag anyway. At the top we noticed some of the routes were dry and so we decided to unpacked our things.
We started really easy with some 5b, just to get the flow, and continued on one of the nicest 6a in sector Trapez -” Ježek teka teka”. It’s an easy 6a but really beautiful and nice warm up (my recommendation!)
Than we decided to try the daily project. My plan was to go on “move by move” so I can be certain, next time I try to send it. I did all the moves fairly fast & easy and get to the top. At that time we didn’t know how much time there is left for us, because it was slowly raining when I was climbing and from the top, I barely see my belayer since it was so foggy. So I started collecting bolts on the way down and focused on the project, crux and the beauty of moves. I really enjoy climbing it, even though my body was still a bit shaking from adrenaline from the route – 30m high route still makes my belly feel the butterflies. 🙂 I guess the crux of this project is mainly mental (fear of falling). We continued climbing for another hour and left the area with good feelings but also unpaid bills. On the way down it started.
My head started thinking about sending the project and making plans for next visit. Since the rain was dictating our come back I focused on the feeling I get anytime I figure out the moves on some poject – should it be 6c or 7b, it just has to inspire me. This feeling is: I GOT THIS!!! I love this energy that hits me when I know the project will go! My usual routine is happening really intense!
So when that happens, I come home, sit on the chair, close my eyes and climb the project a few times – in my mind! Than I go on and I research about the project on 8a.nu or plezanje.net where I can see comments about the project of other climbers. In that time I start paying attention to get enough sleep, eat good & healthy food and try to climb some easier routes where I feel in control, so my feelings are making me feel strong! Intensity depends on how psyched I am about it. Sometimes I even can’t wait to go to sleep, because first thing after I turn the lights off is climbing. I close my eyes and start doing the moves in my current project. I can see myself climb, rest, study best beta and finish the route! I climb 2 – 3 times (still in my mind 🙂 ) and than fall sleep. I guess I am really lucky to be able to remember every single important move on routes so I can do this cold training. When I woke up I get up with purpose and good energy since my project is waiting for me.
I am not sure many people will understand what I am saying here. Some of you might even think I am crazy and weird and honestly I don’t really care. 😀 I love this part of me in my climbing. It is not even that important how hard/soft the project is. It just has to inspire me in some way.
That is why I enjoy climbing so much!